The Azores – European Hawaii
The
Portuguese archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, two and a half
hours away from the mainland of Portugal, is a true pearl of Europe. Some call
the Azores the European Hawaii because of its location in the middle of the
ocean, of volcanic origin and greenery. It is also interesting that the
archipelago is located at the contact of three tectonic plates (North American,
Eurasian and African), which consequently causes (rare) earthquakes.
The
Azores archipelago consists of nine islands and several islets, the largest one
being São Miguel. The islands are poorly connected to each other and
transportation from one to the other is unprofitable in terms of time and
money. Air transportation between the islands is the simplest, but also the
most expensive (one way is around 85 euros) option. There is also a ferry that
connects some islands and is a cheaper option.
This
is exactly why we decided to visit only one island, São Miguel. Since I was in
Porto at the time on Erasmus, the organization of the trip itself was simple. Plane
ticket prices from Porto or Lisbon can be found starting from 20 euros per
direction in the off-season, up to 80 euros in the season. We paid about 70
euros for the return ticket for the first week of June, because that's when my
boyfriend came to visit. We spent less than 5 days in the Azores, and it may
sound (too) short, but those few days were quite enough for us to visit the
entire island. Although I would say 5-6 days is enough to explore everything,
7-8 days would be ideal if you want to explore at a slower pace. However, a lot
also depends if the weather serves you. For us, 90 % of the time during the
trip was sunny or at least partly sunny, which made it easier for us to move
around the island. Likewise, the Azores can be visited at any time of the year
because the temperatures are always favourable. But the weather is more likely
to nice if you go between June and October as the rest of the year is the
"rainy season".
GENERAL
INFORMATION:
1.
The Azores are in a different time zone
than the rest of Portugal (UTC - 1), which means they are -2 h from Croatia.
2.
There is no sewage system on the island,
so paper must not be thrown into the toilet anywhere, but instead into the bin
next to the toilet. But don't worry, the toilets don't stink because the bins
are emptied regularly.
3.
I recommend renting a car because using public
transport (buses) can limit your trip due to timetables and the unavailability
of some attractions. Driving on the island allows you to explore spontaneously
and stop at unplanned viewpoints or attractions. Car rental has normal prices,
but it is recommended to book them as soon as possible so there is no hassle
later. Also, fuel was surprisingly cheap for us, and we paid 1.35 euros for
diesel (June, 2023). The roads are mostly in good condition and it is not
difficult to drive, although there are narrows in some parts, which requires a
little more skill and patience in driving.
4.
Accommodation (for two) offered on the island is usually a private room in a
larger house with common areas (kitchen, living
room, sometimes bathroom). We booked a room with a private bathroom and paid
€50 per day, which was one of the cheaper options. Also, the hotel offer on the
island is limited. Therefore, book your accommodation as soon as possible. The
location of the accommodation is not so important if you rent a car because the
island is not big and you can easily get to all parts of the island relatively
quickly.
5.
The weather on the islands in the middle
of the Atlantic is unpredictable and constantly changing, so the advice
is to take a raincoat with you and dress in layers. The good thing is that in
the Azores there are web camera recordings that show the current conditions in
certain locations, so you can see in advance what the weather is like in which
part of the island and plan daily activities. You can follow the current
condition at the following link: https://www.spotazores.com/cams
.
ATTRACTIONS:
Before
the trip, when I was searching what to see in São Miguel, I marked all the
locations on Google Maps. Although, of course, we didn't get to visit them
all (there are over 50), we visited the vast majority. To make it a little
easier for you to organize your trip, you can find the attractions of the
island that I marked on the following link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/MPdJvPbA5oenusVD6
.
For
the Azores, it doesn't make sense to plan every day in advance and decide what
to visit on which day. As I already mentioned, the weather is quite
unpredictable and varies depending on the part of the island. So, I recommend
checking the live cameras every morning and deciding where to head that day.
We
spent the first 3 days exploring the island as much as possible, walking, stopping
at every viewpoint, and the last two days we relaxed a bit on the beach with
local food and drinks. I will write more about our itinerary in the next
section.
OUR
ITINERARY:
DAY
1 – trip to the center of the island
Our
first day was reserved for exploring the central part of the island. On the way
to the Gorreana tea factory, we stopped at a couple of viewpoints that were on
our way: Miradouro do Cintrão and Miradouro de Santa Iria. The
viewpoints on the island are well decorated and adapted to tourists (tables,
benches, souvenir shops, toilets, information boards...) which surprised me
quite a bit. We also came across viewpoints that even had barbecue grills.
Then
we reached the Gorreana tea factory, which is the oldest (1883) and the
only (commercial) tea plantation in Europe. Within the factory, there is also a
plantation and a circular path of 3.4 km that you can walk on. Finally, you can
taste green and black tea for free in the factory and take a guided tour if you
are particularly interested in production.
Later,
we headed to Furnas with the geysers, and on the way there we stopped again at
the viewpoints Miradouro do Salto do Cavalo and Miradouro do Pico do
Ferro. The island of São Miguel has a lot of mineral hot springs due to its
volcanic origin that allow the construction of thermal spas and the creation of
natural ocean pools heated by the volcanic vent. Furnas is known for its
small geysers that you can freely walk around. However, be sure to be prepared
for the smell of sulfur that is typical for such springs.
There
are also many thermal spas (as I already mentioned), of which we chose Poça
da Dona Beija with geothermally heated water from an iron-rich spring. The
entrance fee is 8 euros and you can enjoy the pools for an hour and a half.
There are four warm (approx. 39 degrees) and one "cold" swimming pool
(approx. 27 degrees). Certainly, when you are on the islands, it is worth
visiting at least one of these spas, considering that they are very specific to
the Azores. You can choose from several thermal baths, from the one mentioned
to Parque Terra Nostra (more expensive, but located in the botanical garden),
and many others (google it and see which ones seem the best to you).
After
a bit of relaxation, we continued along Lake Furnas to the Jardim
José do Canto park / forest. Entrance to the park costs 4 euros and
includes various walks, from a path to a waterfall and redwoods to a garden
with birds and a small chapel. The walk to the main attraction, the Rosal
waterfall (Salto del Rosal), takes about 30 minutes and is easy. The park
closes at 5:00 p.m., so make sure you arrive at least an hour and a half before
closing so you get to explore everything.
And
the last stop of the day was the Lagao de Fogo, a lake that is almost
always covered in fog, and therefore we also didn't manage to see it completely
without it. But it didn't bother us because it gave a certain mystique to the
place. We didn't go down to the lake (it can only be reached by foot), but that
is also an option. In summer, you can only get to the lake by the bus you have
to pay for (5 euros per direction), so be careful if you are traveling there
between July 15 and September 30.
Photo 12 Lagao de Fogo
DAY
2 – exploring the west
Photo 13 The second day of the trip
On
the second day, we went to the most famous attraction of the island, Lagoa
das Sete Cidades, which was declared one of the seven wonders of Portugal.
The lake, which consists of two parts, the blue and the green lagoon, is the
only natural surface reservoir of fresh water in the Azores.
On
the way to the lake, we stopped at the Miradouro do Pico do Carvão
viewpoint (parking lot by the road). We continued driving to the parking lot
for the Miradouro da Boca do Inferno lookout (picture 1), the most famous
lookout point in the Azores, but we couldn't immediately find a free parking
lot, so we decided to continue along the road to another lookout point and come
back later. So, it is definitely recommended to come quite early or later in
the afternoon because we barely found a parking lot at 10, 10:30 in the
morning. We returned after spending 20 minutes at another lookout, and we got
lucky because someone just left the parking space. Just be careful when parking
and driving because people park their cars on the road because of the lack of
parking spaces. The walk to the lookout takes about 15-20 minutes, is easy and
goes through a beautiful forest with a view of the mountains. Also, if you go
during the summer or in off-season during sunny days, expect a lot of people
there.
We
also visited the viewpoints Vista do Rei and Miradouro do Cerrado das
Freiras with a view of the lake. Also, the abandoned hotel Monte Palace,
which was opened in 1989 and closed in 1991 due to a lack of guests, is located
there. At these viewpoints, we parked on the road / by the side of the road
(like the majority) because there was no free parking space, but only for a few
minutes to take a few photos and then continue on.
There
are two popular walking trails around the lake, one is easy and suitable for
people of all ages (7.7 km, 2 hours), and the other is slightly longer and more
demanding than the first one (11.8 km, 3 hours). We skipped hiking this time
because we still had a lot to see that day, and something must be left for
another time 😊
After
a wonderful drive along the lake, we headed to Ponta da Ferrari, a place
known for its natural pools and thermal baths. We did not swim there this time,
but it is definitely worth visiting the place for the view of the wonderful
cliffs and ocean rocks (and the natural sea arch).
On the way to our next location, we stopped at Miradouro da Ponta do Escalvado, which is reputed to be the best spot for whale watching. Personally, this is one of my favorite viewpoints on the island! Also, you can find whale watching tours in the Azores that cost from 60 euros. Due to lack of time, we did not go on the tour, but I have only heard things about it.
Photo 15 Ponta da Ferraria Photo 16 Miradouro da Ponta do Escalvado
After
a wonderful drive along the west coast and villages where we got a picture of
how the local people live, we reached Mosteiros beach. At the beach,
there is a lot of parking space by the beach, but also in the village itself,
so parking should not be a problem. The sand on the beach is black and comes
from the island's volcanic history. This beach was stunning because it combines
the wonderful greenery of the cliff, black sand and the blue color of the ocean.
There were not many people on the beach (maybe because the beach is huge and it
seems that way), and there are two local snack bars next to the beach where you
can have drinks and food! Here we ordered a sandwich and a coffee and it was
very nice how we could barely communicate with the older gentleman at the
counter who, after we ordered, went to his house across the street from the
snack bar and told his wife what kind of sandwich to make us. There are also
changing cabins and toilets on the beach, so you have everything you need
(except shade because there are no sun umbrellas). If you decide to swim in the
ocean, be aware of the large waves that are typical of Portugal and follow the
warnings. Of course, be prepared for slightly colder water.
After
spending two hours on the beach, we headed to the apartment, stopping at
viewpoints along the way, of which the Gazebo Red Peak viewpoint stood
out in particular. Wherever you go, every now and then it says
"Miradouro", which means a viewpoint, and the parking lot is usually next
to the road with several benches that allow you to enjoy the view.
Photo 18 Red Peak Gazebo
DAY
3 – chasing waterfalls
Photo 19 The third day of the trip
The third day was reserved for exploring the east, i.e., for chasing the waterfalls, because there are many on the island. First up was the Cascata do Salto da Farinha waterfall. If you have a good car (a little higher one which can go easily uphill), be sure to drive down to the parking lot (two serpentines from the upper parking lot) and you will shorten the walk to the waterfall. Just in case, we parked the car in the upper parking lot (marked on Google Maps locations under Miradouro do Salto da Farinha), but if we had known that the slope of the road was not that big, we would have parked below. Basically, if you park on the upper parking lot, the walk to the waterfall is about 20 minutes, and if you park in the lower one it’s about 5 minutes. However, the walk and the waterfall are wonderful, there are no crowds, and the brave ones can even swim under the waterfall. Personally, this was the my favourite waterfall on the island.
We
then headed to the Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões, a wonderful
natural park with waterfalls. The park and parking lot are free, and there are
also several cafes/snack bars, toilets and others. You can walk through two
"parts", each on one side of the road, and enjoy the greenery and
waterfalls. Definitely a must see on the island!
Photo 21 Parque Natural da Ribeira dos Caldeirões
After
the park, we headed further to the very east of the island. We wanted to visit
the small Ribeira do Guilherme Botanical Garden, but the garden was
closed because it was the weekend, and on weekdays it is only open until 3:30
p.m., so if you want to visit it, keep that in mind.
We
continued driving east and stopped at several viewpoints along the way. The
first was Ponta do Arnel, a lighthouse with a view of the waterfall in
the cliffs. You can go down to it by car (we didn't because everyone warns that
it is dangerous, the road is narrow and the slope is steep) or you can walk
from the upper parking lot. We started walking down and on the way we met a
woman who was returning to the parking lot and asked her if there was a
waterfall down there (because it often dries up). When she said she didn’t see
any, we gave up on the walk and continued to the viewpoint (by car) Miradouro
da Vista dos Barcos, which offers a view of the same lighthouse. Ten
minutes away, the Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego viewpoint is one of the
most famous ones on the island. The entire area of the viewpoint is beautifully
landscaped, full of palm trees and plants, as well as places for barbecues and
picnics. We also stopped at Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada, which, honestly,
is nothing special, Miradouro de Água A retort that offers a view of the
same named village, Miradouro do Pôr-do-Sol and Miradouro do Pico dos
Bodes which were on our way to our next point.
Photo 22 Miradouro da Vista dos Barcos Photo 23 Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego
Cascata
do Salto do Prego is another waterfall in
the east that we visited, it takes about 40 minutes of walking in one direction
to get to it. There are parking spaces along the road in the village (the final
point that can be reached by car is marked under Trailhead - Cascata Salto do
Prego in Google Maps) and we found one easily because we arrived quite late
(around 6:30 p.m.). The path to the waterfall is well-maintained and easy, and not
crowded. The waterfall is big and beautiful, and it is definitely worth taking
a swim (the water is, of course, a bit colder), so take your bathing suit with
you. We ended the day by watching the sunset at the Santa Iria viewpoint, which
was on the way to our accommodation.
DAY
4 - slowly
Photo 25 The fourth day of the journey
On
the fourth day, we decided to rest a bit, sleep longer and explore the rest of
the island at a slightly slower pace. First, we visited Cascata do Salto do
Cabrito, a waterfall that can be reached by car (although there is also big
upper parking) if you drive safely and slowly because every now and then you have
to pass / let another car go. However, this waterfall was nothing special for
me because it was crowded, you can't swim in it and there is a noisy
hydroelectric power plant next to the waterfall.
After
the waterfall, we visited Miradouro das Pedras Negras and continued to
the all you can eat restaurant Solar O Rei dos Frangos with typical Azorean
dishes such as piri-piri chicken and various fish (cod). The price of the
buffet is 16 euros, the staff is very friendly and the food is delicious. It is
absolutely worth eating there! In addition, be sure to try the white sangria
that is popular throughout Portugal (along with the wines).
Photo 26 Cascata do Salto do Cabrito Photo 27 Restaurant Solar O Rei dos Frangos
After
lunch and a short rest in the apartment, we went to Praia de Água D'Alto
(Grande) beach, drank coffee there and enjoyed the sun for a while. Later we
tried to get to the Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz chapel, but the road
to it was closed due to a festival that was held in the village (Vila França
do Campo) below the chapel. We persistently tried to find an alternative
way until we realized that there is only one road that leads to it. The locals
smiled sweetly and waved at us when they realized that we were just driving
around the village looking for where to go next. Due to the circumstances, we decided
to get up a little bit earlier next day to visit the chapel.
DAY
5 – bye bye Azores
Photo 28 The fifth day of the journey
So,
on the last day we were visited already mentioned chapel and the Miradouro
da Nossa Senhora da Paz, viewpoint in front of it. This time the road was
not blocked, we easily found the way and we were the only ones (along with an
elderly local gentleman) near it. The chapel offers a view of the lower village
and the islet of Ilhéu de Vila Franca do Campo, which can be reached by
boat from Vila França do Campo.
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After
the chapel, we headed to Ponta Delgada, the capital of the island. We
didn't stop in the town itself, except for a few minutes to buy souvenirs, but
if you have time, definitely walk around the center. What we visited in the
city was the Plantação de Ananás dos Açores - pineapple plantation.
Entrance to the plantation and tasting of pineapple juice and liqueur are free,
which is a big plus. The plantation is small with several greenhouses with
pineapples in different stages of growth and the pineapple production itself is
explained nicely. You should definitely visit this place!
Photo 31 Plantação de Ananás dos Açores
And
that's it from our trip to São Miguel. I can say
that the Azores are truly one of the most beautiful destinations I have visited
so far! Located in the Atlantic Ocean, these islands are a real gem, filled
with exoticism and local charm. It is especially nice that everything on the
island still seems "local" - the locals are not only focused on
tourist earnings, and are warm and hospitable. I recommend visiting the Azores
before they become a world-famous destination, because they definitely have the
potential to do so!
Photo 32 Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada
More photos on IG profile: @leonamatotek
Text and photos: Leona Matotek
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